The Trees That Reach the Moon: Journey to Taiwan's Giants – The Three Sisters in Qilan
Despite being a small tropical island, Taiwan's diverse vegetation often surprises visitors, with trees resembling those from both hemispheres. Taiwan has 950 million trees covering 60% of its land, but harsh weather—earthquakes, typhoons, and lightning—makes survival challenging.
It is estimated that 941 trees exceed 65 meters in height. The Three Sisters, towering Taiwania Cryptomerioides, or Taiwania, were the first to go viral and capture public attention.
Drawn by their allure, I joined LOHAS' hike on the last day of 2023 to see these giants. There's something magical about starting a new year by embracing such ancient trees—hugging one felt like the perfect way to welcome fresh beginnings.
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Table of Contents:
- About Taiwan Champion Trees 找樹的人 and Giant Trees in Taiwan
- Trail Information: From Smangus to The Tree Sisters to Yuanyang Lake
- Permits, Maps, Transportation, and Accommodation
- Details of The Hike: Looking for The Three Sisters - Taiwania Cryptomerioides
- Free Guides: How to Apply for Hiking Permits in Taiwan. Or Hire Me!
- Related Posts
About Taiwan Champion Trees 找樹的人 and Giant Trees in Taiwan
In the indigenous Rukai language 魯凱族, towering Taiwania trees are described as "trees that hit the moon 撞到月亮的樹." The three neighboring Taiwania trees along 170 Forest Road in the Qilan area naturally came to be known as the Moon Trees or the Three Sisters.
Please note that I'm not a botanist, but I do my best to research the stories and details behind these magnificent giant trees and the people who work hard to discover them. I share that information here for free. If you spot any errors, I'd appreciate your kindness and any constructive feedback you can offer!
Taiwan Champion Trees 找樹的人 and Their Missions
Hsu Jia-Jun (Rebecca Hsu) 徐嘉君, an Associate Research Fellow at the Taiwan Forestry Research Institute, is one of Taiwan's few experts on epiphytic plants in forest canopies. She leads the "Taiwan Champion Trees: Giant Tree Mapping Project" and has climbed 50+ trees that exceed 70 meters (229.6 feet.)
In 2017, she invited Australian photographer Steven Pearce's team, The Tree Projects, to photograph the towering "Three Sisters" Taiwania trees in Yilan's Qilan Mountain. The Taiwan Environmental Information Association (TEIA) then turned the photos into posters, which sold out within hours, making the "Three Sisters" go viral.
Since 2018, Hsu's team has used LiDAR technology to search for Taiwan's tallest trees. After many hours of trial and error, they recognized the enormity of the task. In 2020, they launched the crowd science project "Let's Find Taiwan's Giant Trees Together," where volunteers helped identify over 50,000 LiDAR images in just one month.
Thanks to this collective effort, over 95% of misidentified trees were filtered out. In 2022, the first version of the Giant Tree Map was completed, identifying 941 trees over 65 meters tall across Taiwan.
According to Taiwan's Fourth Forest Resources Survey, the island has 2.19 million hectares (5.4 million acres) of forest, covering 60% of its land, with 950 million trees. The 941 giant trees represent one in a million, with only 202 exceeding 70 meters and just 27 surpassing 75 meters—making them exceptionally rare. (Source)
You can also check out The Tree Projects' Facebook page for more details.
The List of The Giant Trees in Taiwan So Far
Finding tall trees in Taiwan requires time and effort, and the strenuous terrain makes the endeavor even more challenging.
After The Three Sisters, many taller trees were discovered by the Taiwan Champion Trees team. The following list is what I found so far. The list might be subject to change if taller trees are discovered in the future.
The following trees are all Taiwania Cryptomerioides, the tallest tree species in Taiwan.
- Taiwan's tallest tree, Taiwania #55214, is known as the "Sword of Da'an River 大安溪倚天劍." It stands 84.1 meters tall and is located at an altitude of 1,650 meters in the upper reaches of the Da'an River. Discovered in January 2023, it is currently the tallest tree in Taiwan and East Asia.
- The Ka A-lang Giant Tree 卡阿朗巨木 is a Taiwania located by the Ka A-lang River 卡阿朗溪 in Danda, Nantou County, Taiwan. It was the first Taiwania discovered to exceed 80 meters, standing 82 meters tall. It is situated in the cloud forest zone at an altitude between 1,200 and 2,500 meters. The Ka A-lang Giant Tree was found in March 2022.
- The Taoshan Sacred Tree 桃山神木, located in a valley at the boundary of Shei-Pa National Park and the Hsinchu Forest District Office, stands at 79 meters tall. It was discovered in August 2020.
- The Tree Sisters 三姊妹 stands 72.9 meters tall and was found in 2014.
Follow The Tree Projects' Facebook page for updates.
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Trail Information: From Smangus to The Tree Sisters to Qilan
Trail Name: The Three Sisters - From Smangus to The Tree Sisters to Qilan
Distance: 41.8 km (26 miles)
Route type: Point-to-point
Days/Hours Needed: 3 days
Total Ascent/Descent: 2,963m/2,879m
Best Time to Go: Dry season because of the river crossing
Permits: Required
Difficulty Level:
Cabins/Campgrounds: There's no specific cabin or campground to stay. You find your own place to pitch the tent. No catering service is available unless you hire porters.
Distance: 41.8 km (26 miles)
Route type: Point-to-point
Days/Hours Needed: 3 days
Total Ascent/Descent: 2,963m/2,879m
Best Time to Go: Dry season because of the river crossing
Permits: Required
Difficulty Level:
Cabins/Campgrounds: There's no specific cabin or campground to stay. You find your own place to pitch the tent. No catering service is available unless you hire porters.
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Permits, Maps, Transportation, and Accommodation
Permits:
- If you hire a private pickup, you need to apply for the permit to let the driver enter to the 15km on 100 Forest Road. Contact the Yilan Branch of Forestry and Nature Conservation Agency to apply for the permit, TEL: +886 3 9545114 and talk to Forest Management Division 森林管理科
- You need to apply for Police Permit to hike 100 Forest Road and 160 Forest Road. Put "100 Forest Road" and "160 Forest Road" in your destinations.
GPX Track From My Hike
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to change the speed to meet your condition.
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No Public Transport Available
There is no public transport to Smangus. Moreover, this is a point-to-point hike, so you must find private transport to both trailheads. You can drive your car and return after reaching The Three Sisters, but the return trail is more challenging than going there.
If you drive, there are traffic controls on the Smangus Industrial Road. Please check if you want to drive.
Accommodations: Stay in Smangus or Thiakan, Jainshih Township of Hsinchu
Before our hike, we stayed at Ganghao Lodge 崗好山莊 (affiliate link) in Taigang (or Thiakan in the Atayal language) Village. This hotel has a very cool fireplace, and they serve the best braised pork rice I've ever had. The hotel is clean and has good views.
This location is also close to the famous Syakaro (Xiakelo) Historic Trail and Zhenxibao Cypress Trail (post coming soon).
Or you can stay in Smangus before your hike.
Details of The Hike: Looking for The Three Sisters - Taiwania Cryptomerioides
Day 1: Smangus trailhead ➔ 1.5 km signage and toilet ➔ Junction ➔ Crossed Thyakan Creek ➔ Mt. Fansheji ➔ Reached the junction to Three Sisters on 170 Forest Road ➔ Three Sisters ➔ Back to junction ➔ Camped around 6.5 km on 170 Forest Road
Day 2: Hiked light to Mt. Meiyouyan ➔ Returned to the campsite and packed ➔ Reached a gate, checked out the shelter nearby, and camped
Day 3: Left the campsite and took 100 Forest Road ➔ Junction to Mt. Dongbaojinhan ➔ Returned to the junction ➔ Passed the sign of “Watch out for bears” ➔ Passed the gate of Yuanyang Lake Nature Reserve ➔ Reached Yuanyang Lake Workstation at 15 km of 100 Forest Road
Day 2: Hiked light to Mt. Meiyouyan ➔ Returned to the campsite and packed ➔ Reached a gate, checked out the shelter nearby, and camped
Day 3: Left the campsite and took 100 Forest Road ➔ Junction to Mt. Dongbaojinhan ➔ Returned to the junction ➔ Passed the sign of “Watch out for bears” ➔ Passed the gate of Yuanyang Lake Nature Reserve ➔ Reached Yuanyang Lake Workstation at 15 km of 100 Forest Road
I joined LOHAS' group hike to see those beautiful trees. The route also included hiking to other peaks, but I was too lazy to visit all of them. I was content to see The Three Sisters.
We carried our tents, sleeping bags, and meals for this hike. The trail was rugged, and we needed to cross Thyakan Creek 塔克金溪 (or Takejin Creek). This trail is not for newbies.
Day 1 Hike: Starting from the Beautiful Smangus Village
We got up around 5:00 for breakfast and headed to the trailhead in Smangus, which is the starting point of our hike, around 6:20.
06:40 We started our hike at the Giant Tree Trailhead 巨木登山口.
This section was mild and relaxing. You can just enjoy the trails in Smangus without taking challenging hikes.
Next, we were greeted by the beauty of the famous bamboo tunnels.
07:15 We reached the 1.7 km post, a convenient spot where you can find toilets, ensuring you're prepared and comfortable for the rest of the hike.
07:24 We reached the junction to take the deep ascending.
08:10 We passed some machineries before reaching the creek.
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Day 1: Crossing Thyakan Creek
08:23 We arrived at Thyakan Creek and removed our boots to cross the creek. It took us around 20 minutes to cross the creek and put on our boots again.
10:27 We took a break. The trail was covered with pine needles.
10:57 We passed a huge boulder, and the views here were amazing.
From here, the trail was adorned with unique white plants that resembled snow, adding a touch of magic to our journey.
11:16 We found a good spot and had a short lunch break, enjoying the tranquility of the forest.
11:43 We reached Mt. Fansheji 番社跡山, 1,548 meters. There's a Class Three Triangulation Stone.
After Mt. Fansheji, the trail became rugged again. We climbed over many fallen trees and huge boulders scattering around, which is the typical theme when hiking the so-called Mid-level Mountain trails 中級山 in Taiwan.
Then, we entered the forest with many giant straight trees. Our guide, Xiao Tsai, asked us to hug those gentle giants.
14:30 We finally exited the rugged terrain and reached the 170 Forest Road. We left our backpacks at the junction and turned right to see the famous Three Sisters.
Day 1: The Taiwania Cryptomerioides Three Sisters
14:47 This section was very flat and easy to hike. Yet when the researcher, Ms. Hsu, first came here, this place was covered by tall grass, and it was difficult for her and her team to get close to the trees.
The Three Sisters, a cluster of Taiwania cryptomerioides, stood as a testament to nature's resilience. Once the tallest trees in Taiwan, they were soon surpassed by even larger specimens. Yet, their existence, their ability to thrive in the face of change, is a miracle in itself.
15:24 After capturing the beauty of the Three Sisters in photos, we regrouped at the junction. From here, we undertook a long walk along the forest road to our camping site.
15:31 I passed the 10 km mark on 170 Forest Road.
16:47 We drew water when we finally saw some and camped near 6.5 km. There is no specific campground, but we found a suitable spot near the junction to our next mountain on Day 2.
Day 2: More Misty Forest and Rapid Changing Weather
Day 2 was long for my hiking mates because they were on a mission to visit more peaks. After seeing the Three Sisters, I was content, so I told Xiao Tsai that I would stay at our campsite to relax.
05:37 We got ready to hike Mt. Meiyouyan 眉有岩山, 2,328 meters, in the dark. The terrain was steep and intertwined with tree roots. I lent my hiking tent and trekking poles to my hiking mate. Not using my own gear was off-putting and made me grumpy.
07:32 We reached Mt. Meiyouyan, and there was no view there.
While scaling up, I got a glimpse of mountains among the trees. Those were Mt. Nanhua, 3,742 meters, and Mt. Zhongyangjian, 3,705 meters.
09:09 We were close to our campsite and saw the old shelter I overlooked in the dark.
We packed our gear quickly and headed to the next destination.
To be honest, the following trail was long and tedious. We hiked on an old forest road used to transport logs when Taiwan's logging industry was still thriving.
14:47 We arrived at the 0 km mileage and saw a surveillance camera. The weather was great and windy, and I figured I could take time-lapsed videos later.
There was another shelter, Qilan Station 棲蘭工作站, so we went inside to look around. From here, we were on 100 Forest Road.
The condition of this shelter was slightly better, and several hikers had arrived. We also saw forest rangers' logs hanging on the wall.
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11:54 After pitching our tents, we headed to the water source to fetch water.
We reached the junction of 160 and 100 Forest Road and turned to 160 Forest Road.
I wasn't going to hike other mountains, so I helped my hiking mates to fetch water. While on the way to the water source, my hiking mate shared her freak stories about how their gear got stolen on the hikes, and she insisted I hide her water bladder behind the trees. After hearing her stories, I didn't blame her at all.
11:47 We reached the water source, and I started collecting water. I got 6L to fill, and it took longer than I expected.
13:11 I finally arrived at our tent, and the blue sky had turned overcast. I was disappointed, but the misty forests still cast a breathtaking atmosphere.
The weather pattern is typical in Taiwan's mountains, especially in Yilan. Yilan is the county with the most rainfall in Taiwan, and it started raining after we finished dinner.
Later that night, my hiking mate got bitten by a tick. It took us a long time to remove the stubborn creature from her.
If you hike in Taiwan, please be aware of those deadly creatures.
Day 3: Passing Yuanyang Lake Nature Reserve and More Misty Forests
We got up around 5:00 a.m. By 6:00, we were already on the move.
06:11 After passing the 28-mileage post, the sun rose, and we saw Mother Nature demonstrate how to blend morning hues, clouds, and a blue sky.
As the morning hues began to fade, a delicate mist enveloped the sky and the forests, casting a mysterious charm over the landscape. The fog, like a shy veil, concealed the blue sky, adding to the enchantment of the scene.
Just when the forest road seemed to stretch on endlessly, the scenery suddenly transformed. The once monotonous road now held the promise of adventure, and we were filled with excitement.
07:48 After passing a collapsed shelter, we reached the junction to Mt. Dong Bao Jin Han 東保津寒山, 1,962 meters.
08:15 Reached Mt. Dong Bao Jin Han. There was no view here, but the forests were beautiful.
After returning to the trailhead, most of our hiking mates continued to another mountain while the rest continued to hike on 100 Forest Road. The blue sky disappeared and started to drizzle.
Day 3: "Watch Out for Bears"
09:50 After passing the 18-millage post, we encountered a cute sign: Watch Out for Bears 熊出沒注意. The bears mentioned here refer to Formosan Black Bears 台灣黑熊.
According to the Taiwan Black Bear Conservation Association, only about 200 to 600 Formosan Black Bears are estimated to be left in the wild. Due to the loss of habitat and snare traps (now illegal in Taiwan but still out there), those bears are critically endangered.
However, Formosan Black Bears are still killed in Taiwan. When I visited the Black Bear Education Hall in Yuli Township, Hualien, the researchers estimated at least half of the wild bears missed at least one foot due to the snare traps, which made their survival even more difficult.
If you are worried about encounters with Formosan Black Bears when hiking in Taiwan, I can tell you that the chance is meager. I would be thrilled and nervous if I could see one on the trails.
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Day 3: Yuanyang Lake Nature Reserve 鴛鴦湖自然保留區
10:04 We passed through a gate and reached the Yuanyang Lake Nature Reserve entrance. Since hikers are not allowed inside, we only took photos here.
The thermometer at the entrance showed the temperature was 6.5°C/42°F. No wonder I felt cold.
10:21 We passed the 16km post, and there was a lookout, but the clouds took away our views.
10:35 We reached the 15 km post, which is the Yuanyang Lake Station 鴛鴦湖工作站 and our destination.
It's important to note that if you plan to hike this trail, your driver can only take you as far as the 15 km post. Beyond this point, cars are not permitted, so be prepared for a unique hiking experience.
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Free Bus Guides to Hike Popular Mountains in Taiwan
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Taiwan Hikes is not responsible for the content of external sites.
All content provided is for inspirational and informational purposes only. Creating, using, hiking, or traveling with Taiwan Hikes' suggested services or itineraries is at your own risk. Please use your best judgment and follow all safety precautions, as Taiwan Hikes and Anusha Lee are not liable for any losses, injuries, or damages from using this information.
Please also note that Taiwanese government agencies tend to change their URLs without bothering to redirect to the new ones. As a result, you will find some external sites on the Taiwan Hikes website are not working from time to time. Taiwan Hikes will try to update those URLs if possible.
Taiwan Hikes is not responsible for the content of external sites.